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Healthy Homes Standard 5: Draught Stopping

Under Healthy Homes Standard 5, a landlord has to block the gaps and holes that cause noticeable draughts and close off any unused open fireplace or chimney.

Draught stopping is the fifth of the five Healthy Homes rental standards. The landlord must block any unreasonable gaps or holes — in walls, ceilings, windows, skylights, floors and doors — that cause noticeable draughts, and close off any unused open fireplace or chimney. The one exception: the fireplace or chimney can stay open if the tenant and landlord agree in writing to keep it that way.

What counts as an “unreasonable gap”

It’s about gaps big enough that you’d actually notice a draught. Common culprits include:

Normal trickle ventilation and the openable windows required by the ventilation standard are not draughts to be sealed. The two standards are designed to work together — ventilate on purpose, don’t leak by accident.

Typical fixes

The work splits neatly by where the leak is:

Why it pays off

Draught stopping is the cheapest of the five standards and it has an outsized effect. A draughty house can never hold the 18°C the heating standard is sized for, so the sensible order of work is:

  1. Seal the draughts first.
  2. Then the heater isn’t fighting a leak.

Plain-English guide, not advice. This page helps you understand and navigate the rules — it is general information, not design, engineering or consent advice, and it does not reproduce the copyrighted tables of NZS 3604 or any Standard. Always check the current Standard or Acceptable Solution and your BCA, and use a suitably qualified LBP, engineer or QS where it matters.

Common questions

What does Healthy Homes Standard 5 require a landlord to do?

Block any unreasonable gaps or holes in walls, ceilings, windows, skylights, floors and doors that cause noticeable draughts, and close off any unused open fireplace or chimney — unless the tenant and landlord agree in writing to keep it open.

What counts as an unreasonable gap?

A gap big enough that you’d notice a draught — for example daylight under an exterior door, gaps around pipe or cable penetrations, missing window seals, or holes left by removed fixtures.

Do I have to seal up openable windows and trickle vents too?

No. Normal trickle ventilation and the openable windows required by the ventilation standard are not draughts to be sealed. The draught and ventilation standards work together: ventilate on purpose, don’t leak by accident.

Why is draught stopping worth doing before anything else?

It’s the cheapest of the five standards and has an outsized effect. A draughty house can never hold the 18°C the heating standard is sized for, so sealing draughts first means the heater isn’t fighting a leak.

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